I find the more students study with different instructors, read a variety of books, watch U Tube videos, etc, the more confused they become about which paints are really necessary to own to paint the way they wish.
And they do exactly what the paint manufacturers want: They buy more tubes of paint than they can possibly use.
Theoretically you can make all of your colors out of RED, YELLOW and BLUE. But you may find that you can’t always mix the pure ORANGE, GREEN or VIOLET you want, so you buy three more.
For about three years (late ’70’s, early 80’s) I painted with only Alizeran Crimson, Cadmium Yellow Light, and Thalo blue. Well, 4. Early on I added Thalo green.
We were doing a lot of glazing, strongly influenced by Richard Nelson of Hawaii. I found I could get beautiful colors as long as I stayed fairly high-key or light. I could glaze some combinaion of red, yellow and blue to get neutrals and could make every hue in between.
But I couldn’t get color-filled darks. Mud. Or just ugly. The answer? It took me a long time to work it out. See the article at the end of ABOUT in this website– Inksmith, Daniel Smith, Making Sense of Pigments. Also see the June, 2017 posting for a list of the 20 pigments I use.
Summary:
- painting the same scene all in staining pigments, demonstrating their strengths and weaknesses
- painting it again in sedimentary pigments, again showing strengths and weaknesses
- next in the combination of cobalt blue, rose madder genuine, aurolean yellow, and viridian
- finally: Intelligent Choices with
- Stains (dyes) for the first wash colors,
- they flow easily with the water – you can create direction with gesture
- they intermingle with other hues creating fascinating blends
- they bond with the paper as they dry so they do NOT wash up in later glazes
- Use the dye colors for easy mixing when you do wet blending (small wet areas)
- Use the dye pigments when you overglaze if it is a light to middle vlaue area
- Use them for strong undercolor (often of a warmer or different hue) where you plan to go dark
- Sedimentary pigments for over-glazing for texture,
resonance and getting strong darks that are still color filled (see earlier technique corners for more on this)
- The “transparent” or luminous pigment group for subtle adjustments or for very delicate subjects
- Stains (dyes) for the first wash colors,
Hands on? Come to Orcas August 7 & 8.
Happy painting!
Caroline
© Caroline Buchanan, 2017
In Callie Running on the lead page, we have strong cadmium yellow and quinacridone gold in the first wet-on-wet. Second wet-on-wet of thalo green, mixed with ultramarine blue at the top and quin. gold at the bottom. Negative painting using those pigments.